African Train Safari Destinations

Colesberg and the Great Karoo Region

We gradually move from the fertile central plains where rains are assured and mielies (maize) are grown towards the southern Free State and the Great Karoo.

This word Karoo is a Khoisan (Hottentot) word denoting the arid, flat land which stretches from just 160kms north of Cape Town to the area just south of Bloemfontein. It is reminiscent of the Australian Outback. Sheep take over from crops, the flat, dry land punctuated by the occasional green oasis fed by a windpump which sucks up the water from some underground aquifer. This is usually the farmer's home. The rains of the east are now shut of by the wall of the Drakensberg Mountains and other more southerly ranges. Human density is low, with sheep outnumbering humans. About four hours out of Bloemfontein, the train passes over the Orange River at Norvalspont, 1 329m. The 11-span bridge, 500m in length, dates from 1890. Prior to the building of the iron span bridge, Norval operated his punt across the river, of which we have photographs. A blockhouse built during the Anglo-Boer war guards the approach to the bridge. Upstream of the little town lies the Gariep Dam (previously known as the H.F.Verwoerd dam). The river is fed by the melting snows of the High Maluti Mountains in Lesotho. The dusty brown colour gave rise to the name Orange River amongst early travellers of the eighteenth century. About forty minutes after crossing into the Western Cape Province, the train arrives at Colesberg, 1 469m.

Set in a lunar landscape of barren rocks, nestling in a sort of crater, Colesberg, founded 1829, is blistering hot in the summer and freezing cold in the winter - a true desert environment. But very dry and healthy, having only 42 days of rainfall per year on average. Sheep thrive in this environment. It is named after Sir Lowry Cole, the governor of the Cape from 1828 to 1833. Cole had taken part in the Peninsular campaign under Wellington and was present at the battle of Salamanca, 1812. Although the highest of High Tories, he nevertheless was concerned with the rights of slaves in Mauritius, where he was governor 1822-28 and the Cape. This brought him into conflict with the slave owners and, in the Cape, that meant the Boers.

Cole's enlightened attitude towards the slaves, which built up to the abolition of slavery throughout the British Empire in 1833, made him deeply unpopular amongst the Dutch farmers and was a major contributing factor towards The Great Trek of the Voortrekkers, which began in 1834. The town is distinguished by a magnificent Dutch Reformed Church built in the Cape Georgian style. It's radiant whiteness making a stark and dramatic contrast to the dull, brown rocks against which it is set. Altogether a strange little gem of a town hidden in the arid vastness of the Karoo.

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